One point that irks me about BHE is people claiming that they can increase it via boiling. Sugar is a conserved quantity during the evaporation process, so regardless of whether you are measuring the pre-boil wort, or the post-boil wort, the BHE should be the same. You can use extra boiling to offset poor efficiency and hit target OG, but only the volume and SG have changed in this case -- not the efficiency.
Personally, I'd really like a consistent BHE of 75% or so with typical (<1.060) OG beers (many brewers report a decrease in efficiency for high gravity brews). With my last two brews, I've hit 63% efficiency each time. The styles of the recipes haven't been particularly OG sensitive so I wasn't worried about missing the mark, but I'd like to raise the BHE and hold it consistent in the next few brews. A lot of the forums online describe various tips people use to increase BHE, but most of the people responding to efficiency queries are shooting in the dark. Recipe, equipment, etc. are not really enough to diagnose shortcomings in the BHE. Instead, I think that the most important step in diagnosing the problem is separating the BHE into its constituents: conversion efficiency and lautering efficiency. With this brew, I'm going to follow Kaiser's steps to figure out my conversion and lautering efficiency so I can zero in on the problem(s).
The first thing I did was to take steps to insulate my mash tun. I've noticed that the lid feels warm during the mash compared to the sides. This suggests I'm losing temperature through the thin lid (it's a 48 quart Coleman cooler for reference). I struck a few degrees high and stirred until the grain bed hit the ideal temperature as measured with a meat thermometer. Then I wedged some 2" thick foam wrapped in tin foil a few inches above the mash (see the pictures). I used another layer of foam on top of the foiled layer and closed the tun with the lid. With this insulation, the mash held temperature for an hour with no measurable heat loss.
2" thick packing foam used for insulation |
Wrapped in tin foil to avoid absorption |
Foam wedged into the mash tun |
Extra layer of foam for increased insulation |
The lautering efficiency is pretty decent for batch sparging as far as I'm concerned. The conversion efficiency should ideally hit 95%, however. Two majors players in limitation of conversion are mash pH and the crush of the grain. Using EZ Water and data from my water authority, I found that the mash pH should have been well within the acceptable range. Seeing as I did not verify this with strips or a pH meter, this not necessarily the case. That being said, I think it's likely my crush was not ideal. I crush my grains at my LHBS rather than with a personal mill. Many homebrewers suspect that stores will set their mills wide so that brewers don't complain about stuck sparges -- which conveniently helps them sell more grain. Given the steps I've taken to avoid a stuck sparge, I think I can afford a finer crush. Next time around, I'll run the grains through the mill twice and see if my conversion increases. Assuming a 95% conversion, I could easily hit 75% BHE in future brews.
I really don't know where the extra 8% efficiency I got with this brew came from. The crush in each case was likely similar as I used the same mill for both. The gravity was fairly consistent as well. It is possible that holding the temp. constant during the mash led to better conversion. Otherwise, my stirring technique at the dough in may have improved from previous batches.
For this brew, I was aiming for something along the lines of the Berkshire Brewing Company's Dean's Bean's Coffeehouse Porter. I elected to make a nice and roasty base beer and use some coffee in the process too. There's a lot of discussion about how to introduce coffee to the beer. Some people brew espresso and add it to the boil in various stages, or cool it and add to the secondary or bottling bucket. Others use grounds in the mash, boil, or secondary. Beans can be used in the same way as grounds -- some report good results with 'dry beaning.' Personally, I decided to use cold-brewed coffee for this beer. I've heard good things from brewers and coffee aficionados alike on the smooth, non-astringent character of cold-brewed coffee. I will add a half cup to the bottling bucket to get a subtle coffee flavor in the batch to compliment the dark grain bill.
Deadline Coffee Porter
Grain Bill
US 2-Row: 7 lbs (80.0%)
Crystal 60L: 0.5 lbs (5.6%)
Chocolate malt: 0.5 lbs (5.4%)
Coffee malt: 0.5 lbs (5.1%)
Roasted barley: 0.5 lbs (4.0%)
Single infusion mash @154 for 1 hour
Single infusion mash @154 for 1 hour
Hop Schedule
Willamette (5% AA): 0.375 oz, 60 min
East Kent Goldings (6.4% AA): 0.375 oz, 60 min
Willamette (5% AA): 0.375 oz, 15 min
East Kent Goldings (6.4% AA): 0.375 oz, 15 min
Yeast
Fermentis Safale US-05 (one 11.5 g packet)
Stats
SRM: 40+
IBU: 29
OG: 1.062
Brew house efficiency: 71%
Batch size: 3.5 gallons
Notes
Brewed on 1/18/2014
Ran off 2.25 gallons of first runnings (SG 1.080, 89% conversion). Sparged with 2 gallons of water at ~ 200F. Collected total of 4 gallons of pre-boil wort (SG 1.056). Boiled down to a 3.6 gallon batch (SG 1.062). Pitched rehydrated US-05, and left in ambient temperatures. Active fermentation within 12 hours.
2/8/2014
Ground fresh JP Licks espresso roast coffee very fine. Put 1 cup (liquid measure) of grounds, and 4 cups water in a Nalgene bottle. Stirred, shook and left in the fridge overnight.
2/9/2014
Strained the coffee (~ 3 cups yield), and boiled 2 cups along and dissolved the priming sugar for the batch directly in the coffee. Bottled as normal with the coffee/sugar solution.
No comments:
Post a Comment